In praise of unremarkable veg

If you’ve got nothing more than a 3x3m patch of urban garden, here’s a suggestion – dig it up and grow potatoes, carrots and onions. Why? Let me explain…

The idea was prompted by River Cottage chef Mark Diacono’s book A Taste of the Unexpected. Diacono argues that life’s too short to grow unremarkable food like the three aforementioned vegetables, which are cheaply available from the shops anyway and taste no better when grown at home. Why not, he says, grow unusual things that are hard to find in the shops, no harder to grow, and utterly delicious?

I appreciate his logic, but I want to put the case for unremarkable veg. Here’s my eight point manifesto:

  1. More often than not, even unremarkable veg simply does taste better when you grow it yourself. So there.
  2.  And wacky vegetables don’t necessarily taste better, they’re just less familiar. I think there’s at best an element of ‘the grass is greener’ in the view that, say, mashua tastes better than potato, and at worst perhaps a hint of foodie snobbery. If you ate mashua as your everyday staple, maybe you’d be lusting after potatoes. Though I gather that if you eat too much mashua you cease lusting after anything…
  3. There’s a wealth of varieties of the familiar vegetables available to home gardeners that you can’t usually get in the shops – so if you’re fed up with bog standard Desiree potatoes, then grow something more unusual like Pink Fir Apple, and help to keep the diversity of our key crops alive.
  4. It may be just as easy growing unusual vegetables as familiar ones, but actually it’s not that easy growing vegetables at all. Propagation, irrigation, pest control etc can all cut into your time, especially with fancy leaves and transplants. If life’s too short to grow potatoes, then it’s probably too short to grow red komatsuna too. But if you’re that busy you’re probably pulling a big salary – so buy the fancy stuff at the shops and give yourself a workout by getting those potatoes in the ground early in the spring, and then more or less leaving them be.
  5. Become your own food security expert – grow as many potatoes as you can in your urban garden, and then work out how much you’ve grown as a proportion of your annual calorific intake. Makes you think, huh? But then if everyone’s growing basic veg in their gardens, just think how much more food secure we’d be…
  6. Measure how much time you spend growing your veg, and measure your fertility inputs. Seems like a lot? Go to point 7. Doesn’t seem like much? Go to point 8.
  7. Damn right it’s a lot! Think of it as a wakeup call to figuring out how to wean yourself off industrial agriculture.
  8. Damn right it’s not much! Think of it as a wakeup call to figuring out how easily you can do without industrial agriculture.

Hey, it’s been a late spring. Maybe it’s still not too late to get some of those unremarkable vegetables in the ground. You might just find the results are remarkable…

For peat’s sake

Last week I sold on a few organically-certified bags of reclaimed peat seed compost that I’d bought from West Riding Organics and received some negative feedback about the use of peat from customers who apparently hadn’t realised that the reclaimed peat I was selling was based on, er, peat. The episode raises some wider issues that are close to the theme of this blog, and has prompted me to think a bit more about them, so I thought I’d give them an airing.

The basic problem is that peat is pretty much the best substrate for seed compost, but you can only get it from the slowly accumulating vegetable detritus of wet moorlands, which are rare and sensitive habitats, and also ones that sequester carbon. So digging it out for gardeners at rates far greater than it’s being deposited isn’t a sustainable practice.

Reclaimed peat is peat that has been eroded out of moorland habitats and washed into lakes and reservoirs, from where the enterprising folks at West Riding Organics filter it out, fiddle about with it a bit and then sell it to the likes of me. The West Riding Organics website states “It must be stressed that this is a result of natural erosion with man playing no part in its formation”, but according to one customer I spoke to views of this kind are ‘weasel words’.

Why? Well, I can’t speak for my customer but one possible problem is that the erosion is only partly ‘natural’, with at least some of it (how much?) resulting from human practices that exacerbate the erosion. Another possible problem is that there’s nowhere near enough natural erosion to satisfy the demand for seedling compost.

Actually, I don’t think the second objection stands up. No, there isn’t enough peat to go around, but if some of it is knocking around on the bottom of a reservoir then there’s a good case for filtering it out and doing something more useful with it. The same argument applies to the recycled chip fat that I use in my van – we can’t fuel the entire global vehicle fleet with chip fat, but that doesn’t mean that a few of us shouldn’t make use of the resource. The first objection is potentially a problem though. On reflection, my view is that it’s still worth making use of the eroded peat – it’s not doing any good where it is, and it can’t be put back. But if it could be shown that the market for reclaimed peat was in some way directly incentivising land management practices that contributed to the erosion of moorland, then I think I’d avoid buying it. I don’t think using reclaimed peat is ethically tainted just because it’s peat, but if its use is directly contributing to moorland erosion then I’d have to accept that it is ethically tainted. And I don’t know whether it is or not – it would be good to find out.

For me, there are three wider issues of interest here encompassing (1) trust (2) farm economics and (3) growing practices. A few brief comments on each in turn.

My customers bought the compost without researching the details because, touchingly, they trusted my ethical integrity as a sustainability-minded grower. I don’t suppose they’ll be making that mistake again, dammit. And I suppose I in turn bought it without researching the details because it’s organically certified, so implicitly I placed my trust in the Soil Association to have researched the details for me. That’s basically what third party ‘ethical’ certification is all about, as when we buy fair trade coffee in the supermarket for a few pence extra and feel like we’re good people. But since my whole ‘small farm future’ schtick is basically about direct relationships of trust between producers and consumers then I’m somewhat hoisted by my own petard on this one. The only thing I’d say in my defence is that I was pretty explicit in my message to customers about the source of the compost, which just goes to show how much people’s trust of individuals can obscure attention to the fine print. Maybe that’s a good thing. Maybe peat compost will have to go the way of cigarettes, with ‘PEAT COMPOST KILLS WETLANDS AND CAUSES DISEASES OF UNSUSTAINABILITY’ marked in huge letters on the bag. Maybe people will go on buying it anyway, just like cigarettes.

Oh what the hell, I’m going to say two other things in my defence as well, which come under the rubric of the other two wider issues – first farm economics. As a ‘direct producer’ I would love it if I really could produce everything directly. When people visit our holding they often ask, ‘do you save all your own seeds?’ or ‘do you make all your own seed compost?’ In fact, we do try to do a bit of both, but the honest answer is ‘I’d love to but I can’t even earn a living wage spending all my time just growing vegetables’. As I’ve said before on this blog, the economic reality of farming is that fossil energy is cheap and human labour is dear, and this fundamentally distorts the social ecology. Whether it’s possible to farm sustainably at all in the long view of human history is a moot point, but it’s certainly not possible to farm sustainably in contemporary Britain. Which means all of us have to make personal decisions about what we will and won’t do for the sake of our sustainability principles, decisions that are endlessly open to the scrutiny and criticism of others.

And so to the final interesting issue, growing practices. One decision I’ve made is not to import any manures or composts onto my holding…well, er, other than seed compost that is. There are various reasons for that, but the main one is that even supposedly ‘organic’ compost relies directly or indirectly on fossil fuel intensive synthetic nitrogen, and I think we need to experiment with other ways of producing our food. It’s worth bearing in mind that organic growers have to use something like 25 tonnes of soil-building compost per hectare, as compared to something like 250kg of seed compost for the transplants that go into the same area. I think importing the seed compost is a lesser evil. Of course, seed compost doesn’t have to be peat-based, but it pretty much does if you use a soil blocking system for transplants, which I’ve found to be the most effective way of establishing transplants – and effective germination has sustainability implications of its own. Seedling substrates are a big issue for organic growers, because there are very few products available that do a good job without having sustainability implications of one kind or another (coir being the main alternative to peat). If you don’t buy organic it’s pretty likely that there’ll be peat in them thar vegetables, the transplanted ones anyway. What are the solutions? Well, I’m open to suggestions, but everything I can think of involves greater costs, and – if my customer surveys are anything to go by – people think organic veg costs too much already.

Conclusions:

1: I ought to have found out a bit more about the erosion processes associated with reclaimed peat, and whether the market for it incentivises poor land management, rather than relying on the Soil Association to do it for me. I’ll invite West Riding Organics to comment on this.

2: it’s a lot easier to be a sustainable domestic gardener than a sustainable commercial grower, and it probably pays better too

3: but if you really want to be a sustainable gardener don’t import compost of any kind. Period. Or much of anything else for that matter.

I’d be interested in comments on this post, or thoughts on other dilemmas of sustainability facing growers and gardeners.

Organic glyphosate?

I promised a post this week on technology and the Amish but for various reasons I’m going to hold that over for a couple of weeks – mostly pressure of work, including attending the launch of a UK Via Campesina branch over the weekend, a very exciting development. More on that in another post soon.

Still, I don’t want to disappoint my avid readers so I thought I’d tide you over with a few thoughts on glyphosate, culled from some links on Ford Denison’s excellent Darwinian Agriculture blog.

First up is this interesting discussion about herbicides and organic farming. The problem: you grow a grass/legume ley – the key organic fertility-building strategy – but then you need to get rid of it in order to plant your crop. How? In organic farming you basically have to till, which isn’t great for a whole bunch of reasons already discussed on this blog. And it’s energy intensive, which is one of the factors underlying the common refrain that organic farming compares unfavourably with ‘efficient’ conventional agriculture. So should organic farmers learn from their conventional counterparts and start killing off their leys with herbicides like glyphosate? Of course, that’s presently banned under organic standards, but maybe it’s time to rethink the rigidity of the standards and make them deal better with difficult ecological tradeoffs like tillage/herbicide. Or so says Andy McGuire in his blog post. Cue interesting, well informed and polite discussion. How refreshing.

I’ve argued before on this site that the heavy soils and moist climate hereabouts in Somerset incline me to think that judicious tillage in my situation may not be the great evil that is often supposed, but on balance it’s hard to get too enthusiastic about tillage as a wise agricultural strategy. With drier climates and lighter soils there’s little doubt that it is a great evil – soil erosion is one of the greatest threats to agricultural sustainability – and since such regions are often major food exporters this isn’t a problem that anyone can dismiss lightly.

So should we lobby IFOAM to allow glyphosate derogations? Well, it would help if President Obama could nationalise Monsanto once he’s outsmarted the NRA and removed every last gun from the US. And about as likely. Even then I’m not really persuaded about the wisdom of using glyphosate routinely, but there’s a genuine dilemma here. Other ideas discussed on the website included grazing regimens and that good old permaculture standby, mulching. Of course mulching would be great, but it’s not practical on agricultural scales – so perhaps here’s yet another argument for small-scale horticulture over agriculture. Mulching is a lot of work, mind you. And with millions of merry mulchers, you do wonder where all that mulch would come from. Invest in the used carpet trade – you read it here first.

Andy McGuire made the interesting point that glyphosate may be a once in a lifetime discovery – in other words, it won’t be easy to find another comparably effective non-selective, translocated and (relatively?) benign herbicide. A shame, then, that glyphosate resistance in weeds is already developing apace (they say a picture’s worth a thousand words, and the photo on the previous link of glyphosate-resistant corn being overtopped by what’s now glyphosate-resistant ragweed speaks volumes for what’s wrong with modern agriculture). Moreover, the possibility of direct gene flow from transgenic glyphosate-resistant plants to weedy wild plants now seems established. Be afraid. But don’t be surprised – there’s no such thing as an ideal agriculture. Pests and weeds will adapt to whatever management strategies you apply to the agroecosystem. But I’d have thought that if your management strategy involves copious routine spraying of a non-selective herbicide, then it’s fairly obvious that the useful lifespan of your chosen toxin will probably be short. Perhaps there’s another unlearned historical lesson there from the story of antibiotics.

So how about this future scenario, which appeals to my sense of historical irony? On conventional farms weed resistance renders glyphosate ineffective as a routine management measure, forcing farmers to resort to energy intensive and environmentally destructive tillage, at least until they’ve re-established some kind of crop-weed balance on their farms. Meanwhile organic or quasi-organic farmers, whose farms lack the superweeds, use glyphosate sparingly, spraying just a small proportion of their fields every few years as part of a mixed overall farming strategy, thereby keeping resistance at bay. And the press write endless accusatory articles about the inefficiency of ‘conventional’ agriculture compared to the sensible mixed strategies of the mainstream organic farmers, and gleefully point out that conventional agriculture will never feed the world. Well, everyone  can dream…

Darwinian Agriculture

I’ve reviewed R. Ford Denison’s book Darwinian Agriculture in the current issue of Permaculture Magazine (No.75) – the review is also available on this site’s publications page.

I won’t go over the same ground here as in the review – I’ll just make a few observations that I didn’t have space for there. But it’s a cracking book – thoroughly recommended for anyone with an interest in food and farming.

Given that Denison takes on both the biotechnology industry and those he terms ‘self-styled agroecologists’ such as myself, it’s remarkable that his book seems to have received such uniformly positive reviews. I think the reason probably has to do with the quality of his analysis, and the fact that he largely keeps his story focused on the specifics of what the scientific research is telling us – an object lesson for those who seek to justify essentially political stances on the basis of what they call “the science”.

I guess I was already fairly receptive to the critique of what Denison terms ‘the misguided mimicry of nature’ on the basis of my thinking and practice as a permaculture-influenced small-scale grower over a number of years. Several of my posts on this site had been heading in the same direction, but Denison has enabled me to see the issues in much sharper focus from his professional perspective in evolutionary biology. That perspective seems to draw heavily on Richard Dawkins’s rather fundamentalist neo-Darwinism, which normally raises my hackles, but Denison handles it all so deftly that he carries me along. Not so for Timothy Crews, a biologist based at the Land Institute which is much revered among permaculturists. Crews has posted some rebuttals to Denison on the latter’s excellent Darwinian Agriculture blog. Denison has promised a response in turn, and I for one will be watching that debate unfold with interest.

On the subject of permaculture, I don’t personally think that Denison’s analysis necessarily negates too much of what is done in its name (its wilder spiritual reaches excepted perhaps). But it may require us to think more carefully about what we’re doing and why. I hope so, anyway. Equally, I hope some of his criticisms of biotechnology and genetic engineering (or what he entertainingly calls ‘genetic tinkering’) will help to puncture some of the overblown claims that are so often made on its behalf.

I find Denison’s open-mindedness to the range of possible solutions for our agricultural problems refreshing. For example, even though he is in no sense an anti-urban back-to-the-lander, he is willing to contemplate deurbanisation as a response to the difficulties of closing nutrient cycles – a position that many people avoid for fear of being labelled ‘retro-romantic reactionaries’ or some such, as per the kind of diatribes directed at me from some quarters in relation to my previous post. Denison doesn’t oppose urbanisation, but he does recognise that it’s likely to cause difficult long-term problems. If only the ranks of the so called ‘eco-pragmatists’ possessed his degree of pragmatism.

I can’t fault much in Denison’s book, but I’d make a couple of points to put it into a wider context. One emerges from his criticisms of Wes Jackson’s classic paper “The necessary marriage between ecology and agriculture”. Denison’s gloss of Jackson’s argument is that “we can’t understand natural ecosystems, at least not thoroughly, but we should copy them anyway” (p.79). “Does that make sense?” Denison asks. Well, it kind of makes sense to me inasmuch as we clearly don’t fully understand natural ecosystems but we don’t really have any other models of sustainable long-term systems to go by. I suspect that it’s ultimately impossible to create any kind of agriculture that can usefully be regarded as ‘natural’, but the further we depart from it the more we’re flying blind (and also the more input hungry we tend to be). One example is the apparently permanent revolution in nutritional thinking – when I was a kid, the fats in ‘natural’ butter were out and the transfats in synthetic margarine were in, whereas it now seems that that was entirely the wrong way around. The story of pasture-fed versus feedlot beef seems to point in the same direction. So while I think Denison is right to avoid deifying some notion of a perfect ‘nature’ – an all too easy temptation amongst permaculturists – it doesn’t follow that the logic of agricultural nature mimicry is entirely misguided (which isn’t in fact his argument, but it’s a view many seem to adopt).

The second point is that although I’ve praised Denison for sticking to the science, in some ways this gives him an easy ride. He doesn’t commit himself to any particular vision of the agricultural future and he sensibly advocates a bet hedging strategy. The industrial farming lobby rarely even gets as far as acknowledging the merit of bet hedging, at best usually adopting a patronising version of live and let live in its approach to organic, agroecological or small-scale farming – “you get on with your quaint little raised beds or whatever it is you want to do, but leave us to get on with the real business of feeding the world”.

The trouble is, live and let live isn’t how agricultural systems actually work. Anybody trying to operate as a small-scale organic farmer – either for subsistence in poor countries or for cash in rich countries – has to battle almost insurmountable odds to stay afloat, which is why they mostly end up as landless urban slum dwellers in the former case and niche providers of fancy salad leaves in the latter. The charge of organic elitism is a self-fulfilling prophecy. So ultimately anybody who thinks there are things about small-scale or agroecological farming that matter must commit themselves to a much larger conflict, which pretty much has to encompass the political and economic shape of the entire globe. Denison takes us on an exhilarating scientific journey, but back on the land there’s a brutal global fight going on for the right to farm at all. That’s no criticism of Denison, because it’s not what his book is about. But if we’re going to preserve much in the way of small-scale, agroecological and family farming in the coming years, even as nothing more than a bet hedging strategy, we’re going to have to put some heavy political brakes on the direction in which global agriculture and urbanisation is currently hurtling. To me, the outlook there is sombre.

A small experiment

I’m planning to start running what I hope will be a long-term experiment in different methods of organic vegetable growing, and I’d like to invite comments on it. If you can suggest ways in which the experiment could be improved, please let me know now before I embark upon it!

I’ve written a brief outline of the experiment under the grand title of the ‘Vallis Veg Small Scale Horticultural Trial’ which is also available on the Research and publications page, so I won’t repeat the details here. The basic point is that in an ideal world it would be nice if each garden plot could produce huge quantities of food, while requiring virtually no human labour or other resource inputs, and with no damage to the soil or the environment.

Back in the real world that’s not so easy to achieve – and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise! There are likely to be tradeoffs between various desired goals, and I doubt that there’s any such thing as a perfect growing system that optimises all of them. I’ve mentioned in previous posts that different authorities offer quite a number of variants on the theme of how to maximise fertility inputs while minimising tillage and labour, but there doesn’t seem to be an awful lot of convincing data around to evaluate the various claims. This is something that I hope I can help correct with the proposed experiment. If nothing else I ought to get some nice vegetables, improve my fitness through prodigious feats of double-digging, and do my bit to ward off the recession by providing some welcome business for soil testing laboratories. But if you can think of better or different approaches that I should be pursuing, I’d be grateful to hear your thoughts.

Going someplace: in praise of utopias

An article in last week’s New Scientist makes interesting reading for those of us in the agroecology movement (James Mitchell Crow, ‘Down on the robofarm’ NS 2888, pp42-5). The problem is how in the future can we grow more crops for more people in a more sustainable and more labour-friendly way, and the answer is…use robots. In fact, we’re already quite a way down this route with so-called ‘precision farming’, which is no doubt a great improvement on the ‘imprecision farming’ that preceded it, but I suspect that anyone with an agroecological bent reading the article would be struck by the fact that the main benefits touted for the new robotic technology – essentially higher productivities per unit input – can already be delivered by human farmers at a lower energetic cost. The scientists say they’re still some years away from robotic vision-recognition systems that can differentiate weeds from crop plants, something that human farmers nailed several thousand years ago…

A lot of these techno-fixer solutions invite us to marvel at the technology, but what’s really being sold are economic and social ideas. The New Scientist article is fairly explicit that the issues are at root about getting people off the land and into the cities – for their own benefit, it suggests. Whether that’s actually a good idea seems to me a more important arena of debate than the potential fuel, water or herbicide savings of the next generation of big agri toys (which, after all, still use more fuel, water and herbicide than the average small-scale farmer). But that’s not something I’m going to address in this post. What struck me most reading the article was its techno-utopianism – its vision of a future world in which current problems have been banished by technological solutions, not social or economic ones. The article telegraphed (or should that be tweeted?) its techno-utopianism through its illustrations – no photos of actual farming; instead, cartoon drawings of cute robotic farm machines (though it was good to see that the only human figure portrayed in the graphics had a wheelbarrow to hand – maybe there are some technologies that are destined to stay with us).

Now, utopianism gets a pretty bad press but personally I don’t have much against it. All worldviews depend on some idealised notion of the good life, which will almost certainly prove unrealisable in practice. I think it’s worth everyone setting out their utopias, their most cherished future visions, as clearly as possible so that each of us can reflect on the full implications of what we’re striving for. The problem is that some of these utopias get more airplay than others. Had somebody written an article extolling the exquisite ecological adaptations of any number of tribal agriculturalists from around the world – adaptations that modern science is only now starting to unravel – and suggested the need to reform the global economy, get more people back onto the land, and start figuring out truly ecologically adaptive agricultures, I suspect their words of wisdom would have ended up on a very sharp spike somewhere in the New Scientist’s editorial office. Our culture is still smitten with a techno-optimism that to me seems just, well, so last century. The visions of small farm futurists, permaculturists, agroecologists, bioregionalists, peasant populists and the like are dismissed for their utopian fantasy, their misplaced nostalgia, their primitivism or whatever, while utopian techno-futurism gets off scot-free. I say let’s give utopian thinking free rein, but let’s call it when we see it – and let’s not let the techno-fixers off the hook by passing off their social utopias as a neutral agenda of technical progress.

A second dig at tillage

I posted a while back about the questions of tillage and fertility, and have since had an interesting debate about it with Patrick Whitefield, one of my favourite writers on matters agricultural and sustainable.

Patrick pointed out that I failed to mention in my post a major drawback of tillage – the oxidation of humus, the loss of which greatly diminishes soil fertility and contributes to climate change through the associated carbon dioxide. He also suggested that tillage gardeners probably import just as much fertility as no till gardeners, and that in any case gardens are high fertility places, so it’s legitimate to import fertility into them.

I think I have to concede all of those points, although I’m still not quite ready to give up entirely on my illicit affection for tillage. What I would say is that tillage is usually best avoided, so in any given situation if you face a till or no till option it’s always best to go for the no till, other things being equal. My point really was that other things rarely are equal, and gardeners sometimes get it into their heads that no till is just A Good Thing no matter what, like Velcro or Nelson Mandela, without putting it into a larger, whole systems context (I fondly recall the furtive whispers that broke out when some visiting permaculture design students set eyes on my rotavator). But if, for example, you compare somebody who grows a green manure ley and tills it in to somebody who buys in a truck full of cow manure, and you trace back all the environmental and energetic consequences of those two approaches, I don’t think it’s at all clear which option is best – in fact an analysis I did suggested that the tillage option would be better, but there are so many assumptions and difficulties with the data that I certainly wouldn’t want to stick my neck out on that one. Even so, I’m uncomfortable with the idea of importing bulky organic composts as an ongoing part of any putatively sustainable farming or gardening system, till or no till.

As Patrick points out, if you grow the fertility yourself on your site and figure out ways of getting it to your crops without tillage – as for example in John Jeavons’ methods – then that’s got to be the best system of all, and I’d agree. The problem really – which actually is a problem underlying a lot of the issues I discuss in these posts – is that such methods are quite labour intensive. They work well on garden scales, and less well on commercial scales. Large-scale commercial no till involves heavy herbicide and synthetic fertiliser applications – is that better than large-scale organic arable, involving heavy tillage? I don’t know.  Generally speaking, I think the more time spent by the more people growing stuff on the less area the better off we’re likely to be in all sorts of ways, but exactly where to draw the line is tricky.

There are other issues in the till/no till debate, some of which I mentioned in the previous post – for example leaching, soil biota, weeds and animal pests. One argument in favour of a green manure/ tillage regimen is that overwintering green manures prevent winter nutrient leaching. I’ve heard it said that really this is more of a problem with ‘conventional’ farming employing soluble nutrients, but I’m not entirely convinced – if you leave your well rotted compost out in the rain all winter I don’t think there’ll be much nitrogen left by the spring, but if anyone has any data on this I’d be interested. Physical weathering damage is also an issue.

On soil biota, tillage is pretty destructive (mostly of macrofauna), but not necessarily to the extent that it compromises the growing system so far as I understand the ecology. After all, a field or a garden bed is a heavily manipulated environment – and everyone agrees that there’s no such thing as a naturally balanced ecosystem anyway! On weeds, again I’m not sure – tillage can certainly put you on a weed treadmill, but then green manures can suppress weeds. Basically, there will be some kinds of weeds adapted to whatever regimen you choose to adopt, and it’s quite hard to judge which weed presentation is optimal – though I could probably be persuaded that no till approaches are generally better, at least on a small scale. On animal pests, here’s two photos of a little experiment we did this year – squash on the left transplanted into tilled grass/red clover and squash on the right transplanted into grass/red clover which was cut but not tilled at transplantation (the latter being the grassy bit with no discernible squash). The squash in the untilled bed were completely hammered by slugs (well, it was a bad year for it…) and possibly also suffered from competition and/or shading. Of course, this isn’t an argument against no till methods in general, though sadly it may be an argument against a specific method that otherwise might have combined the best of both worlds – a minimum till green manuring regimen with only occasional tillage.

Squash and tillage

Anyway, now that I’m not so tied up with commercial growing, I think I might try to run some little experiments comparing various different methods of till and no till growing. More on that soon. In the mean time, I think my message is: don’t till if you can help it – indeed, in the light of Patrick’s comments, even more so than I previously suggested – and if you do till, do it as infrequently and judiciously as possible. But always think about whole systems and not part systems when you devise your growing methods – if you do, it may turn out that an element of tillage could be the lesser evil.

But now I’ve cleared all that up, I’ve got to say that there’s really nothing quite as amazing as sitting in a tractor hooked to a plough with some nice sharp shares and watching the soil unzip behind you as it carves away off the mouldboards. Not the strongest argument for tillage, I admit, but…well, I did say I have an illicit affection for tillage!

The Imbalance of Nature

A lot of eco-thinking is based on the idea that there is a ‘balance of nature’. If only humanity could figure out how to play its part in that balance instead of jumping wildly on the far end of the scales, the argument goes, then we could assure our own future and that of our fellow organisms.

But is there really such a thing as a ‘balance of nature’? And if there isn’t, does that mean that anything goes as far as we humans are concerned, that we should consider ourselves a ‘God species’, to use Mark Lynas’s phrase, and not allow our horizons to be restricted by the irritating constraints of existing biology?

My answers to those two questions are ‘no’ and ‘no’, and here I’ll briefly attempt to explain why.

There seem to be three distinct levels at which the ‘balance of nature’ is usually invoked – the whole earth system, individual ecosystems and inter/intra-species relationships. At the whole earth system level, the key idea is James Lovelock’s famous ‘Gaia’ theory, which proposes that the Earth is a self-regulating or homeostatic system with a goal – the regulation of surface conditions so as always to be as favourable as possible for contemporary life (Lovelock The Revenge of Gaia, p.208). The problem is right there in that sentence. For it’s one thing to posit homeostasis, and quite another to posit goals. A thermostatically controlled heating system is self-regulating but, unlike its designer, it is not a conscious agent with specific ‘goals’, and there are any number of reasons why the switch may suddenly be flipped. So I’d argue that at the earth systems level forces may exist that tend to conserve various planetary conditions, but this implies no ultimate direction towards a balanced end-state. Lovelock frequently talks about Gaia in the third person as if she is a goal-oriented agent, but he also says that he finds it useful to think of the Earth only as being like an animal, that Gaia is mere metaphor (The Revenge of Gaia, p.20). I don’t think he can have it both ways. If Gaia is mere metaphor (and I can’t see any evidence to suggest otherwise) then the ‘balance of nature’ is at best contingent and provisional, not intrinsic. There are no goals, and no reason to suppose that something won’t come along to switch the celestial heating system on or off. If Gaia truly exists, she must be some kind of mad, amoral scientist, hurling endless germplasm into an indifferent world, throwing curveball after curveball at it (or, being English, perhaps I should say googly after googly), and giggling as she watches whether it can cope. On reflection, I reckon she’s probably a man.

At the ecosystem level, I think we tend to overestimate natural balance partly because our short lifespan makes us perceive stability where ultimately there is none, and partly because we humans have largely succeeded in extracting ourselves from specific actual ecosystems. If we go for a hike in the woods it’s easy to marvel at the natural balance of the biota surrounding us, but ‘natural balance’ may not be the best descriptor for the relationships between actual organisms fighting their numerous battles for position in the woodland, except as an ex post facto description of the outcome of those battles. Similar arguments apply to natural succession. It’s tempting, for example, to think that nitrogen-fixing pioneer species work collaboratively with successor species to enrich the overall environment (with alder playing John the Baptist to the oak tree’s Jesus, for example), but biological research suggest that the priority has more to do with the superior colonizing strategies of the pioneer plants than of any necessary relationship between the two (Begon et al, Ecology, p.481-2). And the boundaries of ecosystems are never rigid, always in flux, always exchanging energy or other inputs at the margins…

At the inter/intra-species level – well, after many years of Social Darwinism proclaiming the competitive struggle for existence, red in tooth and claw, that now all looks rather more like the self-image of an aggressively expanding colonial society than anything deeply grounded in empirical science. But by the same token the stories we now often like to tell ourselves of biological coexistence and cooperation may reveal more about our own modern preconceptions than anything about the world beyond our window (indeed, coexistence can result from what ecologists call the ‘ghost of competition past’ and even genuine symbiosis in nature often turns out to be at another organism’s expense, such as the conspiracy against giraffes worked by acacias and ants). All in all, I suspect that anybody choosing to pin their colours to a particular point on the continuum between savage competition and blissful harmony as a description of biological process is as right, and as wrong, as anybody choosing an entirely different point. Better, I think, not to choose a point at all.

So if there is no real ‘balance’ in nature, does that mean that we humans should feel free to mess with it however we please? I’d like to answer ‘no’, and here’s why. Environmental philosophers have long attempted to show that living things have ‘intrinsic value’ aside from the values that humans place upon them. I don’t think they’ve succeeded, which in some ways I find regrettable but in others a relief, since the biocentric nature ethics of somebody like Paul Taylor puts you in a serious quandary about whether it’s ethically acceptable to actually eat. To be honest, I’m no longer terribly interested in debating the finer philosophical points of such analyses, but I find the writings of Aldo Leopold (eg. ‘The land ethic’ in his book A Sand County Almanac) and his latter day interpreters like J. Baird Callicott (eg. Beyond The Land Ethic) instructive. I’d offer the following brief encapsulation of their arguments in layman’s language: the natural world is complex, humans don’t understand all that much about it, and we gain when we try as much as possible to empathise with and learn from others rather than subordinating them to ourselves (which needn’t imply that we can’t eat them). Or, as Callicott puts it, “A thing is right when it tends to disturb the biotic community only at normal spatial and temporal scales. It is wrong when it tends otherwise” (Beyond The Land Ethic, p.138).

So if as a farmer I grow cabbages, like all other organisms I inevitably intervene in the biotic community and try to turn some of its resources to my own ends. My activities will be of great interest to others in the biotic community, such as cabbage white butterflies, who will do likewise. I could ignore them, and eat whatever remains of my holey, caterpillar-shit encrusted cabbages. Or I could make further interventions in the biotic community: I could cover my cabbages with enviromesh in a (usually fruitless, in my experience) attempt to stop the butterflies entering; I could plant lovage and yarrow nearby to encourage parasitic wasps to come along and lay their eggs inside the caterpillars until they’re eaten from inside out by the wasp larvae; I could spray the cabbages with a Bacillus thuringiensis preparation, or with pyrethrum; or perhaps I could plant transgenic cabbages with Bt toxin engineered into the genome.

All of these strategies make a determinate intervention in nature, and all will have many biotic consequences cascading down the succeeding generations, but if there is no ‘natural balance’ to which any of them converges which of them should I adopt? Going back to the land ethic and Callicott’s summary of it, I feel most comfortable with the ones somewhere in the middle of the list – ones which I suspect also score on grounds of long-term human self-interest, though sadly not short-term profit. Those middle strategies also appeal to me because I think they probably strike more of a balance between my ends and those of other members of the biotic community. For if ultimately there is no balance in nature, perhaps there’s something to be said for finding a balance in ourselves.

Annuals, Perennials and Permaculture

I posted a while back on the issue of annual and perennial plants and the permaculture movement. An interesting debate on the Permaculture Research Institute of Australia website initiated by Angelo Eliades has prompted me to reflect further on the question.

Other than confirming once again that the Y chromosome finds ever new arenas in which to construct its fragile ego, the debate turns on the possibilities for replacing the widespread cultivation of annual plants in global agriculture and horticulture with perennial plants. As explained in my original post and as further outlined in Eliades’s article, the potential benefits of doing so are multiple. The question is whether it’s possible to provide enough nutrients – particularly macronutrients such as energy and protein – to the planet’s vast human population with a purely perennial agriculture.

It’s striking that most wild floras are dominated by perennials, whereas most agricultural crops including the major staples are annuals (wheat, rice and maize provide the majority of global macronutrients). But there are some perennial staples – mostly tuber crops such as potatoes, yams and cassava, although very often these are cultivated as if they’re annuals, thus losing most of the environmental benefits of perenniality. It’s also worth pointing out that since the Neolithic revolution, most of the world’s population has been fed by annual grain agriculture including all of the famous ancient civilisations, with tuber/perennial-based systems dominating in only a few areas such as New Guinea and parts of sub-Saharan Africa (see, for example, Mazoyer & Roudart A History of World Agriculture or Mithen After the Ice). But though relatively rare, these tuber-based systems have proved stable and successful.

Now, an important permaculture principle is to model human landscape design after natural systems, and since perennial plants are so dominant in the wild this alone is enough to make many permaculturists favour perennial-based cultivation. The puzzle then is why it’s proved so relatively rare in human agricultural history. Eliades believes, first, that perennial plants are more productive than annuals, while simultaneously requiring less energy and effort to grow, which would make the puzzle all the greater if it were true. His answer is that, second, the only reason we plant annual crops is because of “arrogance and lack of perspective”.

Both of these claims are so absurd that they shouldn’t really require any refutation. To fabricate a cultivation system that conjures additional productivity out of nothing, while simultaneously  dishonouring the many annual-based farming cultures that have laboured to create viable social ecologies takes a lot of cheek, and is the sort of thing that prevents the wider world from taking permaculture as seriously as it should. OK, perhaps I should register one slight qualification here – as I mentioned some time ago in my post on potatoes, it’s possibly true that grain-based agricultures better suit the interests of state-building elites than tuber-based horticultures (though I very much doubt it’s really that simple), so in that respect perhaps there may be a small role for ‘arrogance’ in the development of annual cereal culture, but not nearly enough to explain its ubiquity.

So we’re back to square one with the puzzle of annual agriculture and perennial flora. In my earlier post, I mentioned Professor J. Philip Grime’s CSR theory as a way to explain the puzzle. Grime classifies plants as ‘competitors’ (selected for in high nutrient – low disturbance situations), ‘stress tolerators’ (low nutrient – low disturbance) and ‘ruderals’ (high nutrient – high disturbance). Most wild habitats are low nutrient, low disturbance and are characterised by stress tolerator perennials, with slow growth rates, cautious reproductive strategies and defences against herbivory, all of which tend to make them less appropriate for domestication in terms of yield and possibly palatability.

As Paul Hillman pointed out in a response to my original post, and as Angelo Eliades also points out, there are nevertheless quite a number of highly productive perennial crops such as sugar cane, cassava, plantains, potatoes etc. With my thinking clouded by the perennial vs annual distinction in the context of CSR theory, my initial response was to suggest that these crops were probably less productive than the annuals. Quite how productive they are in terms of yields per unit fertiliser input or per unit solar input in comparison to the major annual crops is something I need to work on some more, but I’ll now readily accept that they might well compare favourably. Because on reflection, the broader point about all of these perennial staples is, I suspect, that they fit naturally into the ‘competitor’ category of high nutrient/low disturbance crops – essentially pioneer plants that quickly occupy and crowd out fertile space (think of the way gardeners describe potatoes as a ‘cleaning crop’, for example) before giving way to stress tolerators in long-term succession. Many woody fruit and nut species also occupy the competitor or competitor-stress tolerator hybrid niches, as Grime has remarked. In this respect, perhaps we can place the three strategies on a continuum of agricultural usefulness (yield and perhaps palatability) from R to C to S. And if we map the annual-biennial-perennial distinction onto that continuum we’ll find most of the annuals and biennials and a few of the perennials at the R/C end of the spectrum, and most of the perennials at the S end.

That, at any rate, is my working hypothesis. It explains why agriculture and horticulture tend to favour R and C strategists and invariably try to prevent ecological succession (by ploughing, mulching or burning), and this in turn explains why our cultivated plants are mostly annual and biennial but with a number of important perennials.

All of this matters because C strategists – whether annual or perennial – are essentially short-lived, high nutrient demanders, so they don’t exempt us from the fundamental agricultural tasks of generating fertility and preventing succession. This shouldn’t be all that surprising, because in the spartan energetic economy of nature, nobody can expect a free lunch. The more we try to push productivity, the more we need to fertilise and curtail succession, and the more perennial agriculture starts to resemble annual agriculture (eg. with sugar cane replanted every second year in high output systems). And unfortunately we do need to push productivity, because there are 7 billion people on Earth. I think it’s worth being a little sceptical of anyone who claims to grow all their own food, and even more sceptical of anyone who claims to grow it all from perennials – which is not in any way intended to suggest that I think it’s a bad idea to try. There’s much to be said for abundant polyculture, but we do need to keep an eye on overall yield and energy balance. In that respect, every step towards a more perennial staple agriculture and horticulture is important, and initiatives such as the Land Institute need our unqualified support. But the ultimate goal of a productive perennial agriculture is not an easy one to achieve – to state otherwise on the basis of a simplistic reading of permaculture principles risks discrediting the movement. There’s already far too much snake oil on sale.

I have a lot more work to do to flesh out this basic thesis, but I think that’s enough for now. I’d be interested to hear anyone’s further thoughts on the topic.

Why we need a perennial agriculture, and why we may not get it

A couple of posts ago I mentioned the issue of tillage in the context of the permaculture movement. Here I want to discuss another issue at the core of permaculture that troubles me, namely its emphasis on perennial plants.

A key permaculture theme is to observe the natural world and then apply its lessons in conscious human design. Looking at natural plant communities globally it’s striking that almost always they’re dominated by perennial plants, with only a few annuals. Human agriculture, on the other hand, is dominated by annual plants, with only a few perennials. Supposing we could model our agriculture instead on these natural perennial plant communities – the benefits seem numerous. We wouldn’t need to till, to weed, to fertilise, to worry about soil loss or winter leaching and so on and so on. We would put less labour and less energy into our farming, and reap the benefits year after year.

So why don’t we? The literature sometimes presents the issue as a fateful choice made by our farming ancestors – a preference for domesticating annuals that, once made, was as if somebody had switched the points and committed us for ever after to the single track of a high input annual agriculture. There may be something in this. It’s possible to see why the early cultivators might have focused their efforts around annuals and then, with success, had few options but to stick with it. But this view troubles me because it fits within a narrative of modern progress and enlightenment that I frankly don’t believe – the view that our ancestors were less clever and less capable than us in spotting the possibilities for a truly sustainable and sophisticated perennial agriculture. It seems to me that if virtually all human agricultures have inverted the natural order of things by consistently favouring annuals over perennials in the long term, it’s likely due to strong underlying biological causes that are hard for agriculture to overcome, and not just cultural myopia.

J. Philip Grime’s book Plant Strategies, Vegetation Processes and Ecosystem Properties has given me a few inklings about what those causes might be. I can’t hope to convey the richness and complexity of Grime’s analysis here, but his basic point is that three fundamental plant strategies have arisen in response to three types of habitats – the ‘stress-tolerator’ strategy of a low nutrient-low disturbance habitat (think oak tree), the ‘competitor’ strategy of a high nutrient-low disturbance habitat (think nettle), and the ‘ruderal’ strategy of a high nutrient-high disturbance habitat (think chickweed). The fourth logical possibility – low nutrient-high disturbance – basically keeps plants at bay (think wind-blasted scree slope).

Most natural habitats in this schema are low nutrient-low disturbance, and even the ones that aren’t generally have a successional tendency towards it. The plants best fitted to cope with such habitats are perennial stress-tolerators with highly conservative life strategies. Nutrients are scarce, predators are legion, reproduction is risky – so stress-tolerators grow slowly, live long, reproduce cautiously (often clonally) and invest resources in making themselves unpalatable with prickles or poisons. Competitors and – more so – ruderals, on the other hand, prefer to make hay while the sun shines, investing in fast growth and prodigious reproduction at the expense of longevity and unpalatability. But they require habitat disturbance and/or high nutrient input to stave off the longer-term successional advantages of the stress-tolerators.

It’s easy to see where agriculture fits into this picture. Farming peoples want palatable and highly productive plants, and the way they’re most likely to get them is by interfering in succession and replicating ruderal/competitor situations of high disturbance and high nutrition by tilling and fertilising. The result is an agriculture based around prolific, tasty, leafy and/or seedy, mostly ruderal and mostly annual plants.

Grime’s three types are in some sense abstractions, which admit to hybrid strategies in practice. But there are still strong morphological barriers – it’s hard to be stress-tolerant and quick-growing and palatable. Human plant breeding efforts no doubt can and have pushed hard against some of these barriers, but I suspect we’ll struggle to overcome them altogether. For example fruit trees can be quite stress-tolerant, quite productive and certainly palatable – but they’re not very stress-tolerant, and their productivity has probably arisen through co-evolution with fructivorous animals as a reproductive strategy to disperse seeds a long way from the parent plant, which is no doubt why orchards are so disease-prone, and why organic orchards have been described as “the most challenging frontier an organic grower can face” (M. Phillips The Apple Grower). Likewise, most productive herbaceous perennials seem to be pretty short-lived – competitor hybrids, perhaps. Wes Jackson, probably the best known exponent of breeding for a perennial grain agriculture, reckons that it may take at least 50 years to breed a commercially viable perennial grain crop, but he points out that even if we were to develop only one it would pay dividends (Jackson, New Roots For Agriculture, pp.102-8).

I’m sure it would, and I’m sure that professional and amateur breeders should be devoting themselves more fully to the task – especially in places such as Jackson’s native Kansas where the effects of annual tillage agriculture are so manifestly destructive. But I suspect that it will be challenging. Jackson’s oft-quoted remark that “if your life’s work can be completed in your lifetime, then you’re not thinking big enough” maybe hints at his own sense of the difficulties he has embarked upon.

So where does all this lead? For me it suggests that we should support efforts to breed productive perennials – especially seed-based macronutrient-dense perennials – wherever we can, because annual tillage agriculture is pretty destructive. But it also suggests we shouldn’t bank on these efforts succeeding. It suggests that there may be a lot of good reasons for planting gardens packed with fruit and perennial vegetables, but we shouldn’t (yet) delude ourselves that these are ‘permaculture’ gardens unless we can live off them entirely without any surreptitious visits to the bakery or the chip shop (though talking of chips, a long hard look at tuberous perennials may pay dividends). For me personally, I think it means that I want to devote the majority of my farming efforts to figuring out how to grow annual crops as sustainably as I can, for example through agroecological potato growing, rather than going too far down the perennial route. Because much as I’m enjoying this perennial-intensive time of year, with all those lovely creamy spaghettis con asparagi and rhubarb crumbles, sadly it’s the spaghetti and the crumble rather than the asparagus or the rhubarb that are mostly responsible for keeping my hunger at bay. Oh, and maybe the cream as well…which of course brings us back to grass, probably the most successful perennial agriculture we’ve yet devised.

Successful it may be, but sadly an agriculture based around perennial grass isn’t successful enough to feed a planet of seven billion, at least without falling back on other aggressive ruderal strategists – such as Triticum or the notorious Glycine max. And this raises interesting questions about ‘productivity’. Since we devote a huge proportion of our croplands to livestock fodder, could we perhaps afford to push a little less hard at the productivity boundaries likely to trip up perennial grain culture if we adopted a more vegan diet? Maybe, but would it be enough? Everything points to perennial agriculture working best in low population, dispersed, intensive food gathering situations – in other words something barely resembling agriculture at all, so much as the preagricultural situation from which our early farming forebears emerged.

In Permaculture One, the founding document of the permaculture movement, Bill Mollison and David Holmgren wrote that “Permaculture, unlike modern annual crop culture, has the potential for continuous evolution towards a desirable climax state” (p.7). I think that may prove to be pretty optimistic in the face of the biological realities surrounding plant strategies. Any thoughts?